- Mexico's Jalisco region is home to many distilleries that create some of the world's best tequila.
- Tequila sales in the US have increased significantly in the last 15 years, so author Bob Carden went down to visit Mexico to learn more about the liquor.
- It's made from the agave plant, which is harvested after about seven years of growth, cut down, and milled. The juices are then fermented with yeast.
- Three common types of tequila are blanco, reposado, and anejo. They are differentiated by the amount of time they are aged.
- While often higher-end, the best kind of tequila is made from 100% blue agave. Lower end tequila brands are often "mixtos" — made with at least 51% agave, and added sweeteners.
I'll never forget that first shot. Burning as it slid down my throat, I thought, "Maybe this is what turpentine tastes like."
I had more later — only after the stuff was drowned in a pitcher of lime juice, salt, and sour mix.
But that was several thousand miles and lifetimes ago — today, I am nurturing an impossibly good tequila añejo in an agave field in the Mexican state of Jalisco.
A bright morning sun bounces off the Cerro del Pandillo mountain onto the El Tesoro Distillery's endless rows of agave plants. This is the second leg on my tour through Mexico's famed "Tequila Trail."
Some of the world's best tequila is produced in this mountainous, semi-arid, starkly beautiful landscape, and sales are on fire. Tequila has nearly doubled the growth of vodka in the past 15 years. Higher end, premium tequilas have grown eight fold during the same time. Names like Patron, Herradura, Espolon, and Casa Noble have climbed to the top shelf, bumping up next to the Macallan single malts and Remy VSOPs.
And while growing quickly, there's more market to grab. Tequila comprises a little over 7% of the US spirit market, and less than 1% worldwide. Thus, distillers have developed new and tasty concoctions. While blanco — or silver tequila — controls about 80% of the market in the US, newer, aged tequilas — called Reposados, Anejos, and extra Anejos — are gaining in popularity. And for good reason: They taste great.
Silky and aromatic, these tequilas are made from pure 100% blue agave plants and are designed for savoring and sipping, not shooting. Lower cost brands — called "mixtos" — typically contain just 51% agave, remaining ingredients could include molasses, corn syrup, or any sort of sugars.
But, that's how many of us — unfortunately — were introduced to tequila — slugging down mixtos back in the dorm room with salt and a lime.
And that drives Ruben Aceves crazy.
"I hate that so many's first experience is with low grade tequilas, says Aceves, Global Brand Ambassador for Tequila Herrudura, a 140 year old distillery that only produces 100% blue agave tequila. "They often are full of sugar or syrups, taste bad and people would wake up with a bad hangover…We have to educate the people about the pure agave tequila."
My education starts with the agave plant.
Agave is to tequila what grapes are to wine. Spiky, sugary, and floral, agave thrives in the volcanic soil of the region. It typically grows about seven years before it is harvested.
Once harvested, agave is sheared to resemble a really big pineapple. It's then halved, quartered, cooked, and milled. Juices are then fermented with yeast. And distillers here sure love their yeast. Many blast classical music at the fermentation vats to "inspire" the yeast.
Here's a rundown of the main types of tequila:
Blanco — which is clear silver — is aged less than two months, if at all. It has a bold and sometimes harsh taste that works best with margaritas.
Reposado is aged in oak barrels for up to 12 months, and best for mixed drinks and sipping — or shots.
Anejo is aged in oak barrels for one to three years, which often contributes a toasty vanilla and citrusy flavor. This type can be expensive.
Extra Anejo, aged at least three years, has a smoky flavor and comes with a high price tag. If you like sipping scotch and whiskey, then this is your tequila.
The industry is also constantly experimenting because of what Trent Fraser — CEO of Volcan, a startup distiller — calls tequila's "versatility of consumption."
That's a fancy way of saying there's lots of different types of tequilas that can be consumed in lots of different ways. He predicts that Palomas (tequila and grapefruit soda) is the next big cocktail, because it's lighter and easier on the stomach than margaritas.
Now, I've come full circle. My first tequila was a straight shot, as was my last. But the taste today is about as far away as that crowded dorm room 40 years ago.
